Fitting & Sewing
Each pattern contains all the sizes listed on the front of the envelope. However, each design will have a slightly different range of sizes. I include as many sizes as I can for that particular design. There are technical or pattern-making constraints which sometimes limit the range. For example, #215 only goes up to 2X because if this pattern were graded beyond this, the pleats would not hang properly. To accommodate sizes larger than 2X, I would need to redraft the entire pattern to keep the pleats hanging well.
If you have a question regarding fabric selection, fit, or the construction details, just send me an email using the contact form. If you want to make a pattern in a size not listed for you, I may be able to walk you through it. Some of the designs are easier to alter than others. The more seams a design has, the easier it is to alter.
Please review the measurement charts on each pattern before you cut out your fabric. Home sewing sizes are different than Ready-to-Wear sizes which you find in stores. Some mu’u mu’u designs are slightly shorter than others, so check the length too.
Patterns are grouped loosely into the following mini-collections:
100 series: Mu’u mu’us and Maxi dresses: Many of these can be easily shortened to knee and tunic lengths, or adapted to beach wear.
200 series: Classic Hawaiian dresses and Authentic Hawaiian shirts, Japanese jackets
300 series: Resort Wear and Maxi dresses
Many of the designs are longtime favorites of the locals. They are classic, graceful styles which can look completely different when made in various fabrics. #101 looks so soft and feminine made in a white eyelet. The same dress, sewn in red and yellow Hawaiian print with two-color ruffles at the hem, looks positively fiery!
Many of the patterns can be shortened to midi or knee length for running about town, or to tunic length for wearing over some cute capris or pants. #105 and #309 work especially well for this. The #200 style appeared on a Paris runway in Fall 2009 as knee length, worn off the shoulder with a self belt. Every year this style shows up in the runway shows in a slightly different form. The Spring 2011 Paris fashion preview showed the Japanese jacket style of #230 in flowing silk chiffon in several lengths.
Here is a helpful gathering tutorial by The Sewing Divas. Click Here
I want to thank you so much for your help with the wedding dress. We had the final fitting yesterday and it is gorgeous. The bride will be the classically beautiful Hawaiian bride and both she and I are thrilled.
It was so important to me that this dress be beautiful since the families have been friends for more than 40 years. I was terrified to try to alter that pattern and I am so grateful for your generosity. You were spot on and the only little problem I had was in the front dart placement and that was easily fixed. You have helped to make her day perfect. Mahalo.
I made the classic Hawaiian shirt for my husband. I found your instructions were extremely well written. It was my first shirt, and I was consulting a shirt making book also. In every instance your directions were better than the book writer’s. I am delighted to see the website looking so good.
Herb Kane's paintings & our muumuus
For a peek into beautiful Hawaiian moments, be sure to click on the links to Herb Kane’s paintings, which you can find on some of the pattern pages. The paintings show you that particular dress in some dreamy settings!